In the dynamic world of cosmetic formulation, one element is particularly enigmatic. We’re talking about emulsifiers – a core ingredient behind the smooth, stable, and luxurious textures of your favorite skincare products. Whether you’re a seasoned R&D professional or a new formulation chemist, understanding the chemistry and influence of emulsifiers is crucial for crafting products that consumers love.
So, what exactly are emulsifiers? In simple terms, they are substances that extend the stability of a mixture comprising two or more immiscible phases, such as oil and water. Emulsifiers work by reducing interfacial tension, enabling the distribution of fine internal phase droplets within the external phase and slowing their coalescence. By increasing emulsion stability and ensuring even distribution of active ingredients, emulsifiers play a vital role in enhancing the efficacy, aesthetic appeal, and shelf life of cosmetic formulations.
But emulsifiers do more than stabilize mixtures. They enable formulators to explore innovative textures and delivery systems, offering endless creative possibilities in formulation. From lightweight serums to rich creams, emulsifiers strongly influence viscosity, texture, appearance, and feel of cosmetic products. Some emulsifiers may irritate skin, “soap” during application, and require heating during manufacturing while others do not. The polarity of the oil phase, charge compatibility, emulsion type (i.e., O/W, W/O, or W/S), and desired marketing claims (e.g., PEG free) must also be considered by the cosmetic formulator. By understanding various emulsifiers and staying abreast on new emulsifier technology, formulators can improve underperforming formulations and approach more diverse and innovative ideas with confidence.
Polyglyceride fatty acid esters (PEFA) are a class of renewable emulsifiers growing in popularity in cosmetic formulation, in many ways outperforming their non-renewable PEG surfactant counterparts. PEFAs are nonionic, nonreactive amphiphiles that play well with electrolytes, preservatives, proteins, polymer resins, and the environment. They are 100% plant-derived, biodegradable, mild, and moisturizing on the skin. EMULSIDERM MPN is a unique PEFA emulsifier blend with a Natural Origin Index (NOI) of 1.0 per the ISO 16128 standard. This cold-pour liquid, free from PEG and 1,4-dioxane, excels in crafting sophisticated oil-in-water emulsions for skincare, sun protection, color cosmetics, and hair care products. Formulating silicone-free, cold process emulsions with >95% Natural Origin Content is effortless when combining EMULSIDERM MPN with RAPIDGEL® EZ2 and our naturally derived SENSODERM and ACTIVEDERM ingredients.
Next time you’re formulating a new skincare masterpiece, explore different types and combinations of emulsifiers to unveil new textures, enhance stability, and elevate the overall experience for your consumers. Embrace the power of emulsifiers and unleash your creativity in crafting innovative and effective cosmetic formulations.
